The Wines of Boscarelli




The Boscarelli estate seems to be a work in progress. Now a lot of work certainly has been completed, from the complete replanting of the vineyards to select clones of primarily Sangiovese, though with some Mammolo, Canaiolo and Colorino along with Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. In addition the cellars at Boscarelli have been expanded, and expanded again, and maybe need to be expanded yet again. Ok so things are still in progress, like the barely begun enclosure around the fermenting tanks located out back behind the property.
I guess the truth is that Boscarelli is indeed a work in progress. The approach here is quite practical. For example the wood tini that were chosen not only because they hold about a days harvest each, but because there simply is not enough space to house both stainless steel fermenting vessels and wood ageing vessels. It’s a practical matter of space, to a degree. The fact that the family has enjoyed great success with this equipment certainly helps to persuade against any hasty adoption of newfangled tanks.

With a relatively recent founding, in 1962, Boscarelli has quickly established themselves as a family owned winery that put’s quality first. Any compromises that have been made in the production end of the winery have quickly been corrected. Well as quickly as possible. One gets the distinct impression that the acclaim, and demand, that these wines generate may have taken the family by surprise.

The estate is now in the hands of the third generation of the De Ferrari Corradi family. I was able to meet with the intense, and obviously passionate Niccolo, who shared his vision for the property, that naturally included expanding the cellars, as well as a move away from vin santo production towards Occhio di Pernice, that luscious sweet wine based on dried Sangiovese grapes.

The history of the region, and the quality the wines have achieved through their evolution is foremost in Niccolo’s mind. Well actually the construction projects and sundry design problems seem to be at the forefront of Niccolo’s mind, but the wines and where they are certainly get their fair share of attention. The goal here is to continue to improve on what they have achieved without sacrificing the character that sets these wines apart from so many Sangiovese based wines of Tuscany.

The wines of Boscarelli are an impressive line-up that ranges from wines with a modernist bent to fairly traditional wines with a freshness and clarity that many wines of their ilk lack. As with most of the producers in Montepulciano is it a shame that we don’t see more of each estates wines here in the US.

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