What the Geeks are Drinking

Esoteric wine making mainstream moves


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Gamay, and in particular Beaujolais is high on the list of geek wines these days much for the same reasons Savigny; people are looking for value priced alternative to the more traditional Burgundies. The top Beaujolais, and in particular the cur wines have emerged as a new class of collectable wine over the past decade or so, and prices have begun to climb along with the new notoriety.

Gamay is of course not limited to Beaujolais, with fine examples coming format he Loire valley in particular but also from maturing efforts throughout the new world, particularly in California and Oregon. As can happen when a grape becomes hot, there's is a significant effort to make it more 'serious' for lack of a better term. While I get it, and Gamay can certainly be made in a powerful and age worthy style it is most often best suited to being produced in friendly, accessible, and joyful style.  I do fear a bit for this style of Gamay as there are far too few playful red wines in the marketplace and it would be tough to lose this most playful and available of them all, but I doubt that will be Gamay's fate. At it's most playful Gamay is an explosion of light fruit flavors with a loose structure built on acidity, and yet at the other other end of the spectrum gamy planted in the right place is capable of transforming into a terroir driven wine with depth, complexity, power and structure for at least a decade of aging.

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